At Īcqua Di Parma has honoured the art and craft of fine fragrance for more than 100 years. The smoked glass bottle in which it is presented, designed by Vincent Villager, is accented with a one-of-a-kind spherical resin cap and is refillable. In the case of Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold, senior perfumer Sylvie Fischer used Intense olibanum, a restorative woody resin used in ayurvedic medicine, to highlight its Eastern flavour. The perfumer individually responsible for each reformulation in the collection was also briefed to add one extra-special “note” that would put fire in the belly of the original formula. Opening with syrupy davana, bergamot, black pepper and cardamom, it settles into a balmy heart of saffron, rose, black tea and vanilla and features a lingering base of oud, honey, tobacco and styrax resin. Inspired by the mysticism of Assam, the golden age of Islam and the risqué tales chronicled in the literary paragon One Thousand And One Nights, it is a polarising scent that doesn’t take any prisoners. Celebrating the precious oud note, this addition to the range, a richer, more sensual and heady reboot of the original, is one of the most successful of these makeovers. In 2019, Molton Brown worked with ten master perfumers to reinterpret its signature line of breezy eau de toilette fragrances (first launched in 2015) as stronger, more complex, eau de parfum concentrations. And if you want to broaden your scented horizons? Take a look at our expert aftershaves and fragrances guide. Here's a selection of the very best oud fragrances for men available right now. It can be very potent so not one for the faint-hearted. The fragrance is – unsurprisingly – described as warm, woody with a slight hint of damp rot, while some varieties are smoky and sweet. The scent itself varies considerably depending on the wood used, where the tree was grown and whether the tree itself was cultivated or naturally infected. Part of the reason for the cost is that the agar tree is now registered by CITES as a potentially threatened species – not surprisingly when the global agarwood market is thought to be worth over £5 billion annually. The trees are grown throughout South-East Asia, India and Bangladesh and agarwood is said to be the most expensive timber in the world – indeed, one of the most expensive of all natural raw ingredients. It is the resin-embedded heartwood of the tree that is the source of oud. When the tree is infected by a mould known as Phialophora parasitica it reacts by producing a dense, dark and fragrant resin to protect itself. It is derived from the tropical agar tree, which is thought to originate in Assam in India. While taken very seriously in the Middle East, oud has only caught on in a big way in the UK in last few years.
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